November 1, 2016

Mazu culture in Taiwan

        Mazu (or spelt Matsu) religion is originated from the coastal regions of China. With the immigration of Chinese, the religion was spreaded to the East and Southeast Asia as well. In the 17th and 18th centuries, crossing the Taiwan Strait was risky for those who intended to move from the mainland to Taiwan, since they often lacked sailing skills and expenses. Hence, they sought blessing from Mazu. After arriving the destination safely, they erected temples in village to worship her. Nowadays Mazu religion has become one of the most important and popular folk religion in Taiwan.

        Mazu is believed to have been born in Meizhou (湄州), Fujian Province in Song Dynasty (宋朝). She was given the name Lin Moniang (林默娘, literally means a silent girl) because she didn't cry when she was born. Legends has it that she possessed special powers to help people. Knowing her father and brother was going to suffer a shipwreck, she jumped into the sea in hope of saving them; unfortunately, none of them survived. Moniang's corpse was washed ashore on one of the islands which was later named "Matsu Islands (馬祖列島)" in memory of her. Since then, she has been seen as a Goddess of the Sea and known as Mazu, which means "Mother-Ancestor". In Qing Dynasty, Mazu was canonized as Tianshang Shengmu (天上聖母), which means "Heavenly Holy Mother." 


Mazu's statue
Always with a kindly smile, Mazu is the protector of the fishermen and the sailors. 
photo credits to: orchid.shu.edu.tw/

        In Taiwan, there are two large-scale pilgrimages held annually for celebrating Mazu's birthday festival, which is on March 23 of the lunar calendar. 


Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage


       One is hosted by Dajia Jenn Lann Temple (大甲鎮瀾宮). It takes nine days for the pious devotees to walk in procession from Dajia District, Taichung City to Fengtien Temple (新港奉天宮) in Singang Township, Chiayi County and back. Mazu is said to rest at different Mazu temples in different towns every night. Although the walk is tough and long, food and accommodation are provided by the residents along the way, usually for free! Maybe this is part of the reason why the 300-kilometer journey attracts 200,000 participants each year. No wonder that the festival is nicknamed Mazu March Mania (三月瘋媽祖) by the locals. 


Dajia Matsu Pilgrimage
The route covers four counties and cities: Taichung, Changhua, Yulin, and Chiayi. There is one mispelling in the picture above--"Day 6, Chengan Temple" is actually "Day 6, Dian-an Temple."
photo credits to: travel.cnn.com/


Baishatun Mazu Pilgrimage 


        The other pilgrimage is held by Baishatun Gongtien Temple (白沙屯拱天宮). Starting in Tongxiao Township, Miaoli County and ending in Chaotien Temple (北港朝天宮), Beigang Township, Yunlin County, the journey is much longer than that of Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage. The biggest difference between the two is that, the actual route of Baishatun Mazu Pilgrimage is not scheduled by human in advance, but decided by Mazu's will during the pilgrimage

Baishatun Gongtien Temple
Baishatun Gongtien Temple, built in 1863 and rebuilt in 1989, is a well-known Mazu Temple in Miaoli. I sometimes went stargazing with my friends in Baishatun when I was in senior high. But I haven't visited this famous temple yet.
photo credits to blog.xuite.net/hsis68/twblog 

        I have never participated in a Mazu pilgrimage before, but I did visit several Mazu temples during my walking-around-Taiwan trip (徒步環島). For example, Dian-an Temple in Beidou Township, Changhua County (北斗奠安宮), Fuhsing Temple in Xiluo Township, Yunlin County (西螺福興宮), etc. They are all magnificent and breathtaking! I would say, Mazu is not only about a religion, a tradition, but also about a spirit, a culture representing Taiwan. 

        By the way, I am looking for an opportunity to attend Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage next year! Haha~




Crawling beneath the palanquin
The ritual called "crawling beneath the palanquin (鑽轎腳)" can bring blessings to the pilgrims. I have gone through the ritual once, but not in Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage.
photo credits to: www.formosaimage.com/


Dajia Jenn Lann Temple
Jenn Lann Temple, built in 1732 and rebuilt in 1787, is one of the most renowned Mazu temples in Taiwan. I attended a cycling activity called "萬眾騎bike" in March, 2013. We rode for 80 km and went through 14 districts in Taichung. The task was to collect four stamps from four Mazu temples in Taichung, one of which is exactly Dajia Jenn Lann Temple.
photo credits to: www.taiwantourbus.com.tw/


Beigang Chaotien Temple 
Constructed in 1694, Chaotien Temple has witnessed the rise and fall of the small town for over 300 years. I took this photo in Beigang during my walking-around-Taiwan trip. 
photo credits to: Hsin-you Ho


The Incense Race at Chaotien Temple
This photo depicts a popular ritual during Chinese New Year, the "incense race  (搶頭香)." If one burns the first incense sticks in the incense urn, he or she will receive the most luckiness from it.
photo credits to: udn.com/



Singang Fengtien Temple
Singang is the birthplace of my grandfather, great grandfather, and great-great grandfather! My great-great grandfather was a teacher in traditional Chinese private school (私塾) and he once served as the secretary of Fengtien Temple.
photo credits to: Hsin-you Ho


Penghu Tianhou Temple (澎湖天后宮)
Established no later than 1604, Penghu Tianhou Temple is the oldest Mazu temple in Taiwan and Penghu. 
photo credits to: digitalarchives.tw/Exhibition



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